In Ask a Dermatologist, Cosmetic

You may have heard dermatologists and skincare enthusiasts touting the benefits of adding a vitamin C serum to your skincare regime. While it is widely known that vitamin C can help with the common cold, did you know vitamin C can be extremely beneficial to your skin, too?

It has been shown to balance skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and reduce the signs of aging. Even if you are curious about vitamin C serum, how do you know if it’s right to add to your skincare routine? And if you decide you should, which one should you choose?

Columbia Skin Clinic’s cosmetic dermatologist, Dr. Asha James, can help recommend products and provide a closer look at how topical vitamin C can change your skin for the better.

What is vitamin C serum?

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that plays a vital role in your body’s function and is a key part of healthy nutrition. It is typically found in different types of fruits and vegetables and can also be taken in the form of a dietary supplement if one’s diet does not include a lot of vitamin C.

In your body, vitamin C has multiple functions including aiding healing, helping form blood vessels and muscles, and protecting cells from the effects of molecules called free radicals. These molecules are created by pollution, dust, smoke, and the sun.

When it comes to your skin, free radicals can cause:

  • Changes in skin color and weakened skin by damaging elastic fibers
  • Fine lines and wrinkles by breaking down the skin’s collagen
  • Premature aging and even skin cancer by damaging the DNA of the cell

As an antioxidant, vitamin C oxidizes, or neutralizes, free radicals in the skin. It boosts collagen production, which reverses cell damage, resulting in firmer and younger-looking skin.

A vitamin C serum is a skincare product packed with vitamin C that is applied topically to the skin. These serums are typically thinner in consistency than creams or lotions and often feel more like a liquid or gel. Vitamin C products can be purchased over the counter at dermatology offices and beauty stores.

What are the benefits of a vitamin C serum?

By helping the skin fight against free radicals, vitamin C serums can provide multiple benefits and create brighter and smoother skin.

Using vitamin C skincare, especially during the day, can provide sun protection. While vitamin C serum cannot replace your regular daily sunscreen, it can be a helpful tool to help protect your skin against harmful effects from the sun. Vitamin C serums can help reduce sun damage by:

  • Reducing early cell death
  • Reducing the release of inflammatory compounds
  • Reducing damage from exposure to ultraviolet light

Another advantage of adding a vitamin C serum to your skincare routine is a reduction in premature aging. Vitamin C helps stimulate the production of collagen, a protein that gives skin its strength and elasticity. Collagen-rich skin is less likely to wrinkle than thinner skin. Vitamin C helps to thicken the skin by adding collagen and reduces premature wrinkles.

According to Harvard Health, topical vitamin C has also been shown to improve skin tone in clinical trials. Dermatologists frequently use it to treat hyperpigmentation, a common skin condition caused by excessive melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color.

Melanin can be responsible for the darker spots of hyperpigmentation. Sun exposure and hormone levels are typically linked to these darker areas. When added to a skincare routine, vitamin C skin care products can lighten these dark spots without lightening the skin overall.

Which serum should I choose?

As vitamin C serums continue to grow in popularity, their compounded annual growth rate is expected to increase by 7.6% from 2024 to 2030. With so many products on the market, choosing a vitamin C serum can be difficult. Because not all serums are created equal, knowing what ingredients and brands to look for is helpful.

Vitamin C comes in several forms, including L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl-6-palmitate. Most serums on the market are L-ascorbic acid, the most studied and biologically active form.

Look for serums with additional antioxidants and boosters, such as vitamin E and ferulic acid. Combining vitamin C with these ingredients can heighten its efficacy and deliver proven benefits for healthy skin.

Depending on your skin type, Columbia Skin Clinic recommends:

How do I use vitamin C serum?

To reap the benefits of vitamin C for skin, it is essential to use it correctly and balance it with other skincare products.

Apply a few drops of the serum after you wash your face, remembering that a little goes a long way. Use it in the morning as your first layer of sun protection and to fight free radicals you encounter throughout the day.

After letting it soak in, apply your moisturizer and sunscreen. When layering skincare products, a good rule of thumb is to apply them thinnest to thickest. Because of its watery consistency, a vitamin C serum should be applied first. You can also apply it at night to help the skin repair itself while other restorative functions take place as you sleep.

Incorporate the best products into your skin care routine

At Columbia Skin Clinic, our board-certified dermatologists can help you achieve your skincare goals. With locations in Columbia, Irmo, Lexington, and Camden, contact us today to add vitamin C serum to your skincare routine.

person touching the skin on their shoulder, representing the anatomy of your skinSquamous Cell Carcinoma illustration of skin cells